*You asked for it…here it is! This is my first quilt tutorial, so if you come across anything that isn’t clear, please leave me a comment.*

Geomtery LessonThis tutorial for my throw sized quilt is meant to be a guideline. You can choose any colors or patterned fabrics you like, change it up and see what you come up with! Your finished quilt top will be 43 ½” by 58″.

*note: if you are on a mobile device, you should view this post in landscape mode for easier reading*

First of all, choose three colors and a “background” color. I chose Kona Goldfish, Teal, and Aloe for my colors and white for my background color. Here is what you will need for each:

Fabric requirements

You are going to be making half square triangles (HSTs). The method I use makes two HSTs at once. To begin, you need to know the size of your finished HSTs –  their finished measurement when all sewn into your quilt. Take this measurement and add ⅞” to know what size squares you need. Our finished HSTs will measure 3 ⅝”, so you’ll add ⅞” and cut squares that are 4 ½” (3.625″ + 0.875″ = 4.5″).

tut1 You will need:

  • Goldfish: 22 squares
  • Aloe: 10 squares
  • Teal: 64 squares
  • White: 96 squares
tut2 Next we are going to take a pencil or fabric pen and mark all of our white squares with a diagonal line from corner to corner. I mark all of my squares at once, this makes it easier to just grab and sew without having to stop and mark each one in between.
tut3 Now we can begin sewing. Grab a colored square and lay your marked white square right on top, making sure to line up all the edges. You can pin if you like.
tut4 Sew down the square ¼” from your marked line.
tut5 When I get to the end, I don’t cut the thread. I just pull it out a bit to get some slack…
tut6 …and then turn the square and start sewing down the other side of the line. This saves a bit of thread and time.
tut7 When you get to the end of the second line, you can snip both the thread tails and the bobbin/needle threads all at the same time. Boom.
tut8 Here is your square all sewn up. Basically I will sew up all my squares at once, then give them all a quick press to lay flat before cutting them.
tut9 Now, we just take a rotary cutter and cut right down the line you marked in between the sewn lines, creating two triangles.
tut10 Press the seam to the side (I always press to the darker colored side) and voila! You have a half square triangle. Trim off the dog ears to finish.

You will end up with the following:
makeWhen making a large number of HSTs, I do each step all at the same time. Cut all the squares, mark all the lines, sew all the squares together, press them all flat, cut them all into triangles (I usually put one on top of another and cut two at a time), and then press them all open. Trimming the dog ears is my least favorite part of the whole process, so I usually do that in front of the TV with a pair of scissors just to distract myself 😉

Once you have all of your HSTs completed, assembly is up to you. I personally like to sew the HSTs into blocks instead of rows because for me it makes it easier to NEST SEAMS…please nest your seams! It will make it sooooo much easier for your points to line up. It makes a huge difference, I promise! Once you get into a rhythm it is really simple. Here is how I assembled the quilt top (AGAIN, this is just my method. I linked to a different method below, so you can pick what works for you):

tut14 Let’s look at just the top left corner (green). I started by joining two HSTs, the topmost corner and the one below it. Then joined the two directly to the right of that the same way. Once I have two rectangles, I can press the left rectangle seam down and the right rectangle seam up so they are alternating, then sew these two rectangles together to create a larger square. Since you have alternated how you pressed the seams, they should nest – see the picture here.

As I said, this is just my method…creating nesting blocks and then joining those blocks together to create larger blocks. For me this is the easiest way to keep track of how to press your seams, because each small block that you start with gets pressed the same way. Left down, right up. Each one is the same. When you join them into larger blocks, they naturally nest.

  • TIP: use a seam ripper to pick out a couple of stitches where all of your blocks meet so the little nest can open up and lay flat.

If you prefer to assemble your quilt top using the rows method, here is a good tutorial on nesting seams that way: Quick Quilting Tip: Nesting Seams by SewCanShe.

Here is a larger area so you can see how all of the squares nest and the seams are all alternating:

You can also see in the next photo how as I kept joining squares to make larger squares, I end up with six large rectangles to sew together. I then sewed the top three into one piece and the bottom three into another, and then joined top and bottom. I also like this method because I only have to sew a total of one really long seam to join the top and bottom, instead of sewing a ton of long seams using the row method. I find it keeps the shape better and is easier to match up points.


So…now that you’ve got your quilt top completed, what are you going to back and bind it with? Here’s what I chose:


I’d like to see yours as well! Tag @roseandtwill on Instagram to show me what you’ve created!

Geomtery Lesson

Posted by caitlin in: quilts tutorials

2 comments on “Geometry Lesson Quilt Tutorial and Pattern

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